Mark Bittman tells it like it is: they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. The legendary, oft re-told tale of Julia Child dropping a chicken on the floor (it was really a potato pancake on the stovetop) may be a beloved anecdote because we never see mistakes on cooking TV any more. Perhaps a pinch of peccadillo deserves a place on our screens today. (Much more on Julia Child and “The French Chef” in Chapter 3 of Watching What We Eat)

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